Fig jam with rosemary & preserved lemon.


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Figs are my favorite fruit to use in savory preparations, especially jam– fig preserves are simply elegant with many different kinds of cheese, charcuterie, rustic breads and crisp crackers. A twist on the balsamic fig jam I’ve been making for years, this is almost purely intended to be part of a cheese plate, roasted turkey sandwich, decadent grilled cheese or something similar, though it wouldn’t ruin a good piece of toast. The rosemary is subtle but the preserved lemon is bright and strong, balancing the sweet, sweet figs nicely with saltiness and acidity. Here is the link for my method of making preserved lemons, and you can often buy them in the deli of a larger grocery store (the Whole Foods in my area has them) or in a specialty grocery with a good selection of ingredients for Middle Eastern or Northern African cuisine.

This recipe makes a very small batch, yielding just a little more than a pint. Though I will include instructions for water bath canning, when I make it again I will refrigerate and plan to use it up quickly, skipping the canning steps. In September, figs are still lovely in my neck of the woods and you can use any variety for this jam– grab a few pints of figs at the market this weekend and set yourself up for some posh snacking in the near future. You’ll want to grab some Brie, maybe Gruyere or Humboldt Fog, and a bit of prosciutto or pate, too– so you’re ready.

fig jam with rosemary & preserved lemon

Fig Jam with Rosemary & Preserved Lemon

  • 4 c. figs, washed, stemmed and diced
  • 1 c. sugar
  • 1 generous sprig of fresh rosemary
  • pinch of kosher salt
  • 3 T. red wine vinegar
  • 3 T. minced preserved lemon (rind only)

If you like, you can start the process several hours (up to two days) before you want to cook your jam by mixing the figs and sugar in a large bowl to macerate. This mixture can be covered loosely and left on the counter for a few hours, or refrigerated for up to 2 days. I generally recommend taking the time to macerate your fruit with sugar before proceeding with a jam, but this recipe can be done with or without maceration.

When you’re ready to cook your jam, if you plan to can for shelf stability, start a water bath and sterilize your jars and lids. (I would use half-pint (8 oz.) or quarter-pint (4 oz.) jars.) Add all ingredients to a jam pan, Dutch oven or equivalent, making sure to scrape out any extra juice and sugar from the container if you macerated the figs. Stir to combine and bring to a rolling boil over high heat; continue stirring frequently to prevent scorching as the preserves boil down. When the jam has thickened enough to fall in sheets from the side of a spoon, it’s ready. You can also tell the jam is a good consistency when you run your spoon in a line over the bottom of the pan and the “hole” you create fills in slowly. 

Remove the pan from the heat and carefully remove the rosemary sprig. It’s okay if some of the needles are left in the jam, but you don’t want the woody stem. If you’re canning, ladle hot jam into hot, sterilized jars; wipe the rims of each jar carefully and affix the lids. Process the jars in a water bath for 10 mins.; remove to a clear, towel-lined counter and allow to sit untouched overnight. Check that each jar is sealed; refrigerate unsealed jars immediately. Properly sealed jars will keep in a cool, dark cupboard for up to a year. 

If you choose not to can, ladle hot jam into a clean container and allow to cool slightly at room temperature before refrigerating. Tightly-covered, it should keep for several weeks in the refrigerator. Warm to room temperature before serving if you can.

Hatch chile corn chowder.


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I was joking Tuesday morning on a-social-media-site-not-to-be-named about the figurative switch that’s flipped on Labor Day: suddenly, food blogs and recipe sites go from tomatoes, zucchini, peaches and corn to pumpkin, cinnamon and apples. Though it was chillier Tuesday morning, my market and your garden didn’t mirror such a drastic shift. I love pumpkin and apples, too, but I haven’t had my fill of fresh, sweet local corn yet! And the Hatch chiles have only been around for a few weeks, at least where I am. And so, in an effort to gracefully embrace the last few weeks of summer, cool evenings and all, I created this “shoulder season” chowder, with elements of a classic corn chowder and surprising heat from roasted chiles and chili powder. It’s wonderful. The balance of sweet corn, spicy chiles, smoky chili powder and cooling cream is addictive. Though I usually suggest substituting whole milk for some or all of the cream in soup recipes, here I would say to go with cream. Indulge. I was tempted to dollop some sour cream on my bowl just to take the creaminess to another level. As you curl your hands around a steaming bowl of this fragrant chowder, think about all the pumpkin-y, apple-y goodness that’s right around the corner, but enjoy the last weeks of this gorgeous summer.

Hatch chile corn chowder

Hatch Chile Corn Chowder (serves 4)

  • 2 fresh Hatch chiles*, or 1/4 c. pre-roasted Hatch chiles
  • 1 T. canola oil
  • 1 lb. red potatoes, cut into 1″ pieces
  • 4 ears of corn, cut off the cob
  • 1 tsp. chili powder
  • black pepper
  • 1 T. minced garlic
  • 4 c. stock: chicken, vegetable or corn
  • 2/3 c. cream
  • kosher salt

Start by roasting the chiles if they’re fresh. Here’s the way I do it: heat your oven to 400 degrees and place the washed chiles right on the oven rack, or on a piece of tin foil, or a clean cookie sheet. Cook, turning every 10 mins. or so, until the skin has blistered and is visibly separating from the pepper. This takes 25-40 mins. depending on the size of the chiles. (You can grill chiles, too, or cook them under a broiler, or buy them pre-roasted. Roasted chiles freeze well; consider making/buying extra for future pots of chowder.) Remove the blistered chiles to a clean paper bag and roll the top to close, or put them in a glass or ceramic bowl covered by a plate. Allow the chiles to steam and cool for 15-20 mins. and then, when they’re cool enough to handle, carefully remove the skin, which should almost fall off on it’s own. Remove the stem, and seeds if you wish, and chop the chiles roughly. Set aside.

In a stockpot or similar large pot, heat the canola oil. Add the potato pieces (no need to peel unless you want to) and cook for 3-5 mins. Don’t stir too often; you want the potatoes to sear/brown slightly, though they won’t get much color. Add the corn, stir to combine and cook for another 3 mins. Sprinkle with chili powder and a few generous cracks of black pepper and stir to coat the potatoes and corn evenly. Add the garlic and 1 c. stock (estimated) to the pot and bring to a slow boil, stirring gently to release any bits of potato or corn that may be stuck to the bottom. Add another cup and do the same, repeating until all four cups of broth are in the pot. Add the reserved roasted chiles and reduce the heat to low; just barely simmer the chowder for at least 30 mins. and up to an hour. The longer you cook, the more the broth will be infused with chile flavors. Cooking for longer than an hour may begin to break down the potatoes, so keep an eye on the pot.

At this point, you can pause the cooking process and refrigerate the chowder base for up to two days. (One of the best things I learned from my Mom: package the chowder base and deliver it to a friend with a pint of cream, some bread or biscuits and a jar of pickles as a housewarming or welcome baby gift, or just as a nice thing to do.) When you are ready to finish the chowder, reheat it gently if it has been in the fridge, add the cream to the warm base and stir to combine. Add salt to taste. Serve immediately; I always accompany chowder with homemade bread & butter or mustard pickles and biscuits.

*Hatch chiles are from New Mexico and not actually a variety; rather, the term encompasses several types of chiles ranging in heat from mild to very hot. I use a mix of medium and hot in my kitchen. If you are unsure which kind of Hatch chiles are in your market and nervous about an overly spicy chowder, you can substitute poblanos, Anaheims or even jalapenos to approximate the flavor. Make sure not to take all the spice out; the dish won’t be the same.

Chicken with roasted tomatillo sauce & avocado-corn relish.


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Tomatillos in late summer, with their sweet-sour flavor, are perfectly matched with chiles, lime, cream, garlic and any combination thereof. After a day of dreamily searching through recipes, I took elements of some of the best I saw, including an avocado and roasted tomatillo soup and braised chicken in tomatillo sauce, and came up with this winner of a chicken dinner. It’s very similar to dishes I’ve made in the past; the tomatillo sauce is just a few ingredients short of the salsa verde I can each fall, and the corn-avocado salsa is pretty much the way I make guacamole, plus corn. (But it didn’t seem like guacamole… hence the name.) I like tomatillo/verde sauces pretty spicy, so the recipe is written as a solid medium, edging toward hot, on the heat spectrum. (You can modify by substituting Anaheim chiles or seeding your Hatch chiles or jalapenos.) The relish is sweet and creamy, with a nice crunchy bite from the corn, the perfect cooling element to balance the spice of your sauce. Don’t want rice? Shred the cooked chicken with two forks and try this as a taco filling instead. As usual with the dishes I lean toward, it’s flexible, straightforward and absolutely delicious. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!

chicken thighs with roasted tomatillo sauce and avocado-corn salsa

Chicken with Roasted Tomatillo Sauce & Avocado-Corn Relish (serves 4)

  • 12 oz. fresh tomatillos, husked, washed and halved
  • 2 Hatch chiles or jalapenos, halved
  • canola oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 2 T. fresh oregano, minced
  • 1 ear of corn
  • 1 ripe avocado, diced
  • 1 T. fresh lime juice
  • 1 lb. skinless boneless chicken thighs or breasts
  • steamed rice
  • sour cream (optional)
  • cilantro (optional)

Start by roasting the vegetables for the tomatillo sauce. (Look ahead in the recipe– you can do the corn now, too.) Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a glass or ceramic dish (I used a glass 9″ x 13″ baking dish), coat the halved tomatillos and chiles with a splash of canola oil. Season with salt and roast for 20-30 mins., without stirring, until everything is softened. The tomatillos should be oozing juice and blistering slightly; nice charred spots are desirable. Remove the pan from the oven and set aside to cool for about 15-20 mins. Add the slightly-cooled tomatillos and chiles, all the juices and scraped up browned bits that may be in your roasting pan, and the crushed garlic to a blender or food processor and pulse until you have a thick sauce. Taste and add more salt, maybe even a little more garlic, to suit your tastes. Set aside.

For the relish, cook your corn by boiling, grilling or roasting it, oiled and wrapped in foil, for 15 mins. while the tomatillos and chiles roast. Cool until you can handle it comfortably and remove the kernels from the ear into a medium bowl. Add the diced avocado, lime juice and a generous pinch of kosher salt. Stir gently to combine; taste and adjust seasoning. Set aside.

Cut your chicken into generous pieces, not bite-sized, but strips or chunks that will cook evenly. (From 1 lb. chicken thighs, I had 8 pieces of chicken.) Season with salt & pepper. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat 1 T. canola oil and brown the chicken, about 5 mins. per side. Don’t worry about it being cooked through at this point, but you don’t want to see any pink spots. Add the reserved tomatillo sauce and oregano to the skillet and turn the chicken pieces so they’re coated in sauce. Cover, lower the heat and simmer for about 10-15 mins., until the sauce is bubbling and the chicken is cooked through.

Spoon steamed rice into a bowl and top with a few chicken pieces and some extra sauce. Dollop a generous amount of avocado-corn relish on top– you’ll want enough to get some with each bite of chicken. Garnish with sour cream and/or fresh cilantro and serve immediately. Store leftovers separately in tightly-covered containers so you can reheat the chicken when you’re ready to enjoy leftovers.


Arugula salad with peaches, bacon & goat cheese.


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For my husband’s birthday in July, we had dinner with his mom at Restaurant Roux in Fremont. Owned by the creator of R’s favorite food truck, Where Ya At, Matt?, Roux was somewhere we had been meaning to go for months; when my husband decided fried oysters were a must for his birthday dinner, it was time to finally check it out. We weren’t disappointed. In addition to the oysters, we had deviled eggs, hush puppies, grilled octopus, boudin blanc, cheesy grits and gnocchi with rabbit and fresh vegetables. Each dish was unique, expertly thought out, well-executed and delicious. My hands-down favorite plate was a salad of peaches with bacon lardons, goat cheese and pea tendrils. I haven’t stopped thinking of that salad for two months, and now that local peaches are ripe and good, it was time for me to make my own version.

Roux version: peaches, bacon lardons, goat cheese & pea tendrils

It’s hard to give a recipe for a salad like this, since I measure with my eyes and not a cup. It’s forgiving of an extra handful of arugula, more or less bacon, more or less peaches… What I’m trying to say is, don’t fret if you have a little more or a little less than what I list. Don’t worry if your infused vinegar has garlic, or tarragon, or red pepper flakes instead of thyme– I bet it will still be marvelous. Just as my salad is an homage to the wondrous dish we had at Roux, let your version be just a little different than mine. Life is too short to worry about measuring salad! That said, I’ve done my best to give you realistic, soundly-estimated ingredient amounts. If you can’t get to Roux, I want you to be able to make and experience this combination of flavors and textures for yourself. (If you can get there, I think it’s still on the menu and I highly recommend ordering one– but then you can make my version when you start craving it like I did.) Sweet peaches, crisp and bitter arugula, tangy herbed vinaigrette, salty bacon, creamy chevre: it’s the perfect late summer meal.

arugula salad with peaches, bacon & goat cheese

Arugula Salad with Peaches, Bacon & Goat Cheese

  • 3 oz. (about 4 loosely-packed c.) arugula
  • 6 oz. bacon ends*, cooked and diced or 4-6 strips thick-cut bacon, cooked and diced
  • 1 ripe, fragrant peach, pitted and sliced (I like donut peaches in this salad)
  • 1 oz. soft goat cheese (chevre), crumbled
  • 1 tsp. honey
  • 1 tsp. grainy mustard
  • salt & pepper
  • 2 T. thyme-infused white wine vinegar or 2 T. white wine vinegar + 1 tsp. fresh minced thyme leaves
  • 6 T. good-quality extra-virgin olive oil

Add the arugula to a large bowl with enough room to add other ingredients. In a large skillet, cook the bacon until the fat has rendered and it’s brown and fragrant. Remove from the pan and allow to cool slightly on a cooling rack or towel-lined plate; as soon as it’s cool enough to handle, chop the bacon into small pieces and add to the arugula. Ideally, it will still be warm and will slightly wilt the greens. Slice the peach and set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard and honey with a pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper. Add the vinegar (and thyme if it’s fresh) and whisk until you have an even consistency without clumped honey or mustard. Drizzle in the olive oil, whisking until your dressing is thickened and emulsified. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Just before serving, dress the greens and bacon with your vinaigrette and toss to combine. Add the peaches and toss again, very gently, or serve the greens and top with sliced peaches. Garnish with crumbled chevre and serve immediately.

*I often buy bacon ends at the market, which are meatier, less salty and less greasy than strip bacon, though not as uniformly tender. They taste a little like Canadian bacon. If you can find them, I recommend using them here. If not, use strip bacon, cubed ham or Canadian bacon. Prosciutto wouldn’t be bad, either.

Family traditions: raspberry whip.



Sometimes simple is best. Raspberry whip, with just three ingredients, is the example I present to prove that sentiment. This is an old-timey dessert reminiscent of meringue crossed with whipped cream, flavored with and colored by fruit.  My Nana often made whip for us with strawberries, sometimes with blackberries, but I think most who tasted all three will agree that the raspberry version is best. Raspberry whip is the most stunning shade of pink you’ve ever seen, light as a cloud, sweet, and both fragrant and flavorful from the berries. You can tell immediately that it’s made with raspberries but would have a difficult time believing the rest of the ingredient list is so short. My Mom made some this summer with wild raspberries I picked with my aunt, and the three of us discussed the origins of this clever dessert: three common, often plentiful ingredients (especially on a farm or in a rural area) can be stretched to feed many people. It wasn’t unusual for a single recipe of whip and a 2-egg yellow cake to be dessert for a dozen people, and then have leftovers. Call it frugal, call it humble, but I call it magical.

I remember having friends come for lunch or dinner at the farm and being excited to introduce them to raspberry whip. It still makes me smile to remember their exclamations over the airy pink goodness on their cake. The smell of whip makes me think of summer and family– if a grandchild brought Nana a small container of berries, it almost guaranteed whip for dessert that day or the following day, as soon as a cake could be made. We picked up on that quickly. I remember sitting on the porch with cousins who would eat all their whip first, in tiny bites, while others spread it out like frosting on a cake. I can’t make whip without hearing the sound of my Nana’s mixer going in the camp kitchen, feeling the scratch of brambles on my bare legs.

wild raspberries behind the barn in Maine

The truth is that you can use any ripe berries (though blueberries don’t do as well) and most kinds of stone fruit for whip. (To substitute other kinds of fruit for raspberries, just keep the ratios of sugar to egg to fruit intact.) My great-grandmother used to make whip with grated, peeled apple, and I’ve always meant to try one made with peaches. Juicy berries are okay, but frozen don’t work; ripe and fresh is key. To serve, any plain cake will work as a vehicle. Yellow cake is my favorite, but our most recent batch went on angel food cake and was marvelous. Especially with raspberries, I think a simple dark chocolate cake would be good. I’ve also found a scoop of raspberry whip with a handful of fresh berries on top is delightful, and accidentally discovered that it’s also pretty awesome with vanilla ice cream. A little bit of whip goes a long way, and pairing it with something with some creaminess (fat) or sharp acidity (fresh raspberries, strawberries, etc.) balances the sweetness beautifully.

It’s really exciting to share raspberry whip with you, such a special family recipe. I’ve always wondered how many people have tried it before? I hope you’ll let me know if you’ve heard of raspberry whip, had some, or if you make some after reading about it here. What’s your favorite fruit to use?

raspberry whip with angel food cake and fresh raspberries

 Raspberry Whip

  • 1 c. fresh raspberries
  • 1 large egg white*
  • 1 c. white sugar

To a large mixing bowl (I use the bowl of my stand mixer, but a large bowl and a hand mixer will work with some patience), add raspberries, egg white and sugar. You can expect the volume of ingredients to quadruple. With your mixer on high speed, beat until the whip is thickened and glossy. You can stop and scrape the bowl if you like, but it’s usually not necessary. When ready, the whip will form stiff peaks like a good meringue. Serve immediately, with cake or additional fresh berries (or both). Leftover whip will keep a day or two in the refrigerator but will not be as gloriously thick and airy.

*Since the egg white will remain raw, use the highest quality, freshest egg you can find. You can pasteurize your egg using this method if you prefer, though I never have.

Fig & orange jam.


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I have such strong feelings about fig jam. I mix a spoonful (okay, two) of fig-cardamom-rosewater jam or plain fig preserves into my breakfast oatmeal or yogurt nearly every day of the winter months. I adore my recipe for balsamic fig jam, my go-to hostess gift and one of the very first recipes I shared with you here. Those three preserves are such standards in my kitchen, I never think of experimenting with figs like I do with other fruit. Until this summer– I’ve tried two new recipes just this month and I think both may be worth sharing.

First, let’s talk about fig & orange jam. The combination of figs and oranges is classic; the sweetness of figs is tempered nicely by the acidity of citrus fruit, especially lemons and oranges, and this jam highlights just how wonderful that duo can be. To open a jar is to step into a fragrant orange cloud; I love that the orange scent and flavor is not lost in the sugary preserves. The jam even takes on a nice golden hue. Though intended to be sweet, it holds its own with savory pairings of cheese (gorgonzola is to die for) and roast pork, and I imagine it will be very good with duck, should I get the chance to use them together. My recipe was inspired by a marmalade, but I chose to leave out the rind and go the route of jam– I was worried that the bitterness characteristic of marmalade would overpower the delicate floral flavor of my figs. I think I made the right choice. The fig flavor here reminds me of a perfectly ripe cantaloupe and is absolutely put in the spotlight by the orange. I can’t say enough good things. If you’re looking for a fig jam that’s a little different, a little special, this might be it. How exciting to have a third fig treat to add to my winter breakfast rotation.

fig & orange jam

Fig & Orange Jam (adapted from Susan Can Cook)

  • 6 c. fresh figs, both ends removed, diced (I use Desert Kings)
  • 3 c. sugar
  • juice and zest of 4 organic oranges
  • juice of half a lemon
  • pinch of salt

Start the process several hours, and up to two days, before you want to cook your jam by mixing the figs and 1 c. sugar in a large bowl to macerate. This mixture can be covered loosely and left on the counter for a few hours, or refrigerated for up to 2 days.

When you’re ready to cook your jam, start a water bath and sterilize your jars and lids. Into a jam pan, Dutch oven or equivalent, add the figs, any extra juice and sugar from macerating, the remaining 2 c. sugar, orange juice and zest, lemon juice and salt; stir to combine. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat; cook, stirring to prevent scorching, until the preserves boil down and thicken. I prefer a looser set, like a thick applesauce, so I stop cooking mine when the jam thickens enough to fall in sheets from the side of a spoon. You can also tell the jam is a good consistency when you run your spoon in a line over the bottom of the pan and the “hole” you create fills in slowly. 

When you reach your desired set point, remove the pan from the heat. I like to leave some chunks of fig; you can (carefully) blend with an immersion blender if you’d like a smooth consistency. Ladle hot jam into hot, sterilized jars; wipe the rims of each jar carefully and affix the lids. Process the jars in a water bath for 10 mins.; remove to a clear, towel-lined counter and allow to sit untouched overnight. Check that each jar is sealed; refrigerate unsealed jars immediately. Properly sealed jars will keep in a cool, dark cupboard for up to a year.

Bleu cheese & bacon potato salad.


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My husband likes to joke that I am a Potato Salad Purist. If I had my way, potato salad would be potatoes, mayonnaise, salt, pepper and a splash of vinegar. I like to think of it as the Mashed Potato Theory in practice: if potatoes are paired with something creamy, something salty and something peppery, they don’t need any other help. (I am aware the vinegar is not addressed but willing to overlook it if you are.) A quick glance at Pinterest or a flip through any summer issue of a cooking magazine shows you that most others would not, apparently, fall into the purist category; I’ve seen potato salad recipes with everything from the hard-boiled eggs, celery and onions of my youth to yogurt and cucumbers, anchovies, salad turnips, pickled beets, pulled pork… In other words, the sky’s the limit for your ingredient list. I like to think I moved closer to this group of Potato Salad Adventurers when I put together the recipe I’m sharing today; it was a daring leap for me and one I’ll never regret.

Bleu cheese and bacon are not unusual ingredients in a potato dish, and they make for an absolutely mouth-watering, fairly decadent, rich and flavorful potato salad. My inspiration was a Cobb salad, and though you can see that I didn’t put all the traditional ingredients into my potato salad, I think you could continue my vision a few steps farther and get there. Cherry tomatoes would work, as would cucumber (I would take out any seeds first), and though I don’t care for eggs in my potato salad, they’d certainly get along well with the other ingredients. I serve this bleu cheese & bacon potato salad alongside grilled chicken or pork, generally, so I might not add chicken if doing that– but what a stellar dinner salad you could make if you did! Back to what I did put in my potato salad– the combination of salty, crispy bacon and tangy, crumbly, creamy bleu cheese (I used Salemville again) is just shy of perfection in a potato dish, and though this won’t replace my plain ol’ purist-style potato salad– it’s too rich to have often– it will become a special addition to the dinner table a few times each year. Every purist should become an adventurer now and then!

bleu cheese & bacon potato salad

Bleu Cheese & Bacon Potato Salad

  • 1 lb. red potatoes, boiled and cooled completely, preferably chilled
  • 1 T. apple cider vinegar
  • 2 slices of good-quality bacon*
  • 2 T. mayonnaise
  • 2 T. sour cream
  • 3 T. buttermilk
  • 2 dashes Worcestershire sauce
  • several cracks of freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
  • 2 oz. crumbled bleu cheese
  • pinch of kosher salt (optional)
  • snipped chives or scallions to garnish

Start by boiling your potatoes in lightly salted water (for 25-35 mins., depending on the size), which can be done 1-2 days in advance, and should be done at least 4 hours before you want to make and serve this salad. I look for firm, relatively unblemished potatoes of a uniform size, so they cook at the same rate. I keep the potatoes whole and leave the skins on; I would recommend cooking them whole and peeling after they are cooked if you want them peeled, which isn’t necessary for most thin-skinned reds. I also recommend refrigerating the cooked potatoes until they’re needed, since cold potatoes are easier to cut and less likely to crumble.

When you’re ready to make the salad, start by cooking the bacon in a skillet or in the oven, whichever method you prefer, until crispy. Remove from the pan and allow some of the excess grease to drain on a wire rack or paper towel-lined plate. When it’s cool enough to handle, chop the bacon roughly into small pieces. Cut your cooked potatoes into 1/2″ cubes and put into a large bowl; sprinkle with cider vinegar and toss to distribute. Add half to three-quarters of the (ideally still warm) bacon to the potatoes and combine gently.

In a smaller bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, sour cream, buttermilk, Worcestershire sauce, pepper and cayenne, if using. Add the bleu cheese and stir until combined, trying not to completely blend in the cheese; a few larger chunks are nice. Pour over the potatoes and gently mix until all potatoes are coated in sauce. Taste and add salt, if necessary, and maybe a little more pepper. Serve immediately, or cover the dish and refrigerate for up to a day. Garnish with the remaining bacon and fresh chives or green onions before serving.

*I genuinely felt like this was enough bacon, with a lot of other rich elements in play, but you could certainly add more. Just remember to add salt sparingly until you taste the salad with bacon, as some versions or brands are saltier than others. Alternately, leave it out, or serve alongside as a garnish, in consideration of your vegetarian guests.



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This week, I am whiling away the days on the lake in Maine. It’s tough: my Mom is cooking for us, there are cute dogs and cute nieces everywhere I look, the sun is shining, the card games are fun and fierce, and this is my view:

sunset at campMy post today is inspired by everything I love about summer: sun, water, cold treats and fun times. What symbolizes summer fun more succinctly than a popsicle? I still remember the exhilaration caused by the jingling, tinkling sound of the ice cream boat, which came around the lake, dock to dock, for a few years during my childhood. (I don’t have any memories of an ice cream truck, maybe because we lived in a small neighborhood? Or maybe boats were the norm in Maine.) I remember sticky fingers on the front step of my house after successfully campaigning for the last cherry popsicle in the box. I remember making grape juice pops in Dixie cups at my friend’s house and then taking them across the street to eat on the beach. Ice pops are summer and, as much as I loved cherry and grape, the ultimate pop has always been a fudgesicle. Because chocolate makes everything better! If you live in a neighborhood without an ice cream truck, or pine sometimes for the pops of your youth (’cause the ones in the stores now don’t taste like I recall… at least to my grown-up taste buds), do I have a treat for you. My fudgesicle recipe is so easy and so much fun to make! You can use any popsicle mold you have, or the Dixie cup route I used as a kid. You can use your favorite chocolate bar and experiment with flavors (I especially love the chocolate orange bar from Theo Chocolate) or stick with classic chocolate goodness. Whatever shape or flavor they may be, cold, creamy, chocolate-y fudgesicles are the way to go.


Fudgesicles (adapted from Brown Eyed Baker)

  • 2 oz. dark or semisweet chocolate, or 1/4 c. chocolate chips*
  • 1/2 c. sugar
  • 2 T. cornstarch
  • 3 T. baking cocoa (I like Hershey’s Special Dark)
  • 2 1/2 c. whole or 2% milk
  • 1 tsp. vanilla**
  • 1 T. butter or coconut oil

In a medium saucepan on low heat, carefully melt the chocolate, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon. Take time and care so it doesn’t burn. When it’s melted, remove from the heat and add sugar, cornstarch, cocoa and milk, whisking to combine. Return the saucepan to the stove and cook over medium heat, continuing to stir, until the mixture thickens (about 8-12 mins.) Remove from the heat again and stir in the vanilla and butter or coconut oil. Transfer to a Pyrex measuring cup or other refrigerator-safe container with a pouring spout. Cover loosely with plastic or a plate and refrigerate until chilled.

Fill your popsicle molds leaving a tiny bit of room at the top; the stick will displace some of the liquid. Freeze for 20 mins. and then remove, add the sticks, and put back into the freezer until frozen through. Enjoy! Happy summer!

*2 oz. is about half to two-thirds of most commercial chocolate bars. I’m not sure how milk chocolate would work in this recipe, but I’ve used a variety of 60-72% chocolate bars from Theo Chocolate and Moonstruck Chocolate (the dark chocolate chile variado is delicious), as well as dark chocolate purchased in the bulk section of my grocery store and Ghirardelli chocolate chips. I would not use a bar that has large chunks of fruit or nuts, not because the flavor would be bad, but because it would be hard to discern how much chocolate was in your 2 oz. portion. Have fun experimenting!

**I love almond flavor with chocolate and found that you can replace the vanilla with 1/2 tsp. almond extract with delicious results. I would recommend this only if you’re using a plain chocolate bar or chocolate chips; using almond extract with a flavored chocolate can (in some cases) result in a muddy, unpleasant flavor.


Cold soba salad.


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We’ve had an almost unprecedented stretch of warm weather in Seattle, over 90 degrees for about 4 days in a row over the weekend and well into the 80’s before and after. According to the local news this morning, it’s the third longest stretch of 80+ degree days in Seattle history. (Huh.) It’s true that it’s rare to have this kind of heat so early in the summer; we’re used to one week later in July or early in August, but early July generally finds us just squeaking out of the low 70’s, maybe taking long sleeves off in the afternoon. I’m not complaining– other than the general ugly brownness from lack of rain, I like the warm weather. The berry crops are early, sweet and plentiful; banner years are projected for tree fruit and other crops. There’s no humidity to speak of and no bugs, and I have been taking advantage of the chance to open the windows wide and spend some extra time reading outside. (Responsibly, with my new sun hat and environmentally-friendly sunscreen.)

The one aspect of hot weather I don’t like is how quickly my house heats up when I try to cook anything. I know Seattle heat pales compared to most of the country, but one week a year of high temperatures does not justify air conditioning or similar coping methods, and I just don’t like a stuffy house. I’ve taken to cooking early in the morning, various things that will hold and provide dishes for several days, and relying on the grill and fresh, raw vegetables to make up the balance. Last Thursday morning I woke at 5 and cooked potatoes for salad, pork for empanadas and soba noodles for this wonderful soba salad. I was done by 8 and happy with my efforts.

This is my very favorite cold soba salad to make. It’s a nice change of pace from pasta salad; it feels heartier, more substantial, perhaps because the buckwheat soba noodles are rich in protein, soluble fiber and various minerals. They’re also naturally gluten-free and have a pleasant, nutty flavor. Soba noodles cook in less than 10 mins. and hold up for several days in the refrigerator. For this salad, I like broccoli florets and snap peas, but you could also add or substitute bell pepper, carrots, green beans, etc. to the vegetable mix. The dressing is also nutty, from peanut butter and sesame oil, tangy from the rice vinegar and pleasantly salty from the soy sauce. This bowl represents my ideal summer dinner: crisp, sweet vegetables, tender noodles and a flavorful sauce. It’s can be on the table in less than 30 mins. or made ahead, like I did, ready when you are. Because it contains no dairy, it’s picnic-friendly, too! If you are looking ahead to a stretch of warm weather, make a batch of cold soba salad and take cooking dinner off your to-do list. Enjoy the sun instead.

cold soba salad

 Cold Soba Salad 

  • 6 oz. soba noodles, cooked according to package directions
  • 3 T. soy sauce
  • 2 T. peanut butter
  • 2 tsp. canola oil
  • 2 T. honey
  • 2 T. sesame oil
  • 1 T. rice wine vinegar
  • 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
  • 2 c. broccoli florets, cut into bite-size pieces*
  • 2 c. snap peas, ends and strings removed
  • 1-2 green onions, chopped

Cook your soba noodles according to package directions and drain. Rinse under cold water and then set the colander over the cooking pot to drain thoroughly.

To make the dressing, whisk together the soy sauce, peanut butter, canola oil, honey, sesame oil, rice wine vinegar and red pepper flakes, if using, in a small bowl. Put the well-drained soba noodles into a large bowl and add the broccoli florets, snap peas and green onions; pour the dressing over the top and toss gently to combine. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate. The cold soba salad will keep well in a tightly-covered container in the refrigerator for 3-5 days. If stored, toss before serving to redistribute the dressing. I like it best after about 2 days, well-chilled and with all the flavors nicely melded.

*The broccoli can be raw or quickly blanched. To blanch, boil 4 c. water with a pinch of salt; add broccoli to boiling water and cook for 1-2 mins. Remove and cool in a bowl of ice water, then drain completely in a colander.

Succotash salad.


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Succotash is one of my favorite side dishes. With as many variations as a potato salad might have, it most often refers to a warm dish made with corn and lima beans. I had never really had it until we started going to Kingfish Cafe, where they do it right, with corn, lima beans, bell pepper and lots of cream. Cream for days. It is so tasty and comforting. When we decided to have a Southern-themed July 4th barbecue, I knew immediately that I wanted to make succotash– but I wanted a lighter, summery version of the classic dish. After looking at a few recipes, this is what I came up with. I grilled the corn to give it some extra flavor and texture, added jalapeno for pop and replaced the cream with a bright tarragon vinaigrette. This salad will be a new summer staple in our house.

Let’s talk about tarragon for a minute. Tarragon is a misunderstood herb. I feel like I need to stick up for it a bit, tell everyone why I love it so much. It’s assertive, doesn’t play well with every ingredient, and its bold, brash anise flavor is too much for some to handle. There’s a reason you don’t hear about tarragon pesto all summer– a little goes a long way. I love the flavor of tarragon and use it every chance I get. At my house, tarragon has two best friends, chicken and mushrooms, and loves to relax with some vinegar, too. In the summer, when corn comes to town, chicken and mushrooms take a vacation and corn and tarragon hang out all day long. There is nothing like the sweetness of corn accented by tarragon. Throw in some other sweet or mild vegetables (potatoes, green beans, cherry tomatoes and zucchini, for instance) and you have a veritable party, which is the case with this succotash salad. Though tarragon is not a traditional ingredient in succotash, it works perfectly to provide a fresh, lightened twist on a classic recipe. When you make this succotash salad, don’t be surprised if it inspires you to invite corn and tarragon to hang out at your house all summer, too.

succotash salad with tarragon

Succotash Salad

  • 3 ears of corn, grilled or boiled, cooled and cut off the cob
  • 3 green onions, chopped
  • 2 T. butter
  • 1 lb. lima beans*
  • 1 jalapeno, minced
  • 1 red bell pepper, diced small (corn kernel-sized pieces)
  • 1/4 c. tarragon vinegar or white wine vinegar
  • 1 T. honey (optional)
  • 1/2 c. olive oil
  • 1-2 T. fresh tarragon
  • kosher salt & pepper

Start by cooking your corn; you can do so up to 2 days in advance. If you haven’t grilled corn before, there are two good methods explained here. I tend toward the foil-wrapped method and take mine out of the foil and onto the grate earlier than most to get some good char on the kernels. You can use olive oil, canola oil or butter and a little salt & pepper for the seasoning. If you’d rather boil the corn, salt a generous pot of water and cook for about 10 mins. When your corn is cooked to perfection, allow it to cool and then use a sharp chef’s knife to take it off the cob. If you’re making it ahead, I recommend storing it on the cob in the refrigerator and cutting it off the cob just before making the salad, so it doesn’t dry out.

To cook the lima beans, boil 4 c. water with a pinch of salt; add the limas and cook for 2-3 mins. They will be al dente. Drain and set aside to cool slightly, preferably in a colander so they drain completely.

To the same pot you boiled the lima beans in, add the butter and green onions. Cook the onions for just a minute or so, then add the boiled lima beans. Toss everything together and cook over medium-high heat for about 3-4 mins., stirring constantly, almost like a stir fry. Taste the limas and continue to cook if you find them too hard. I like them quite firm in this salad.

Add the cooked corn and the cooked limas and green onion mixture to a large bowl. Add the jalapeno and bell pepper and toss to combine. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, honey (if using), olive oil and fresh tarragon. (Start with 1 T. fresh tarragon if you used tarragon vinegar, slightly more if you used plain vinegar.) Pour the dressing over the vegetables, season with salt and pepper and toss again to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings; add the rest of your fresh tarragon if you’d like. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days. I found this made a great leftover lunch for a few days after our barbecue; the flavors melded nicely and the vegetables held their shape.

*I used frozen lima beans and have written the recipe to reflect that. You could also cook dried limas and pick up the instructions at the point when the parboiled limas are cooked with green onions in butter.


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